We woke up around 8 in a dark and quiet house again. Tried to have a shower but in the total absence of warm water decided to have breakfast first. Still no warm water afterwards so we made do Africa style with water heated in a kettle. It was snowing outside. Around 9:30 we walked over to the evangelical church again. Still no sign of life. So we prayed at the church for the church and the town and took a stone from there. On the way back to the hostal we checked that the bank (ATM) was open in case we needed it. It was, but we didn´t. At the hostal we finished packing and then waited for our host who had offered to take us down to the pier to the boat we were to take to Ushuaia. It was really not far, less than 1km, so we could easily have walked. But we were most grateful for his help in the end because the whole process was far from evident and we would have been lost without him.
We had spoken to just about everyone we could find about the boat to Ushuaia. And most seemed to agree that there would be an Argentine boat coming from Ushuaia on Saturday morning that would pick up passengers for the return trip. Apparently a new service. Nobody could tells us exactly how much it would cost - we would have to pay the captain of the boat directly. We did not contact the boat people ourselves but 2 different people took our passport details to e-mail to the Argentine´s and our host seemed confident that all was in order. He took us down to the navy pier (which would have intimidated us on foot) and stood very calmly waiting with us in the falling snow on the pier next to one of the navy boats. This was a bit strange as the navy had previously explained to us that they did not go to Ushuaia or take passengers. He said some things to some navy guys, and they made an effort to get a rope ladder for us to get on to the boat, but we were told to wait on the pier. He said something about the ferry being ón the other side´ and we thought at first he meant the other side of the Beagle Canal but finally espied the tiny little ferry moored to the far side of the navy boat. It turned out we were waiting for the Chilean customs and immigration officers who finally arrived stamp in hand and then used the navy boat as a border post for passengers arriving and departing on the ferry. All this entailed about 1 hour of standing around here and there and without the reassuring presence of our host calmly waiting with us we may have despaired as it was hard to understand what exactly was happening, although the navy personnel were all very courteous.
We finally found ourselves on the ferry, still with no confirmation on how much it would cost. In the end it cost exactly what we had left in US$ cash so all was good, PTL.
The 1 hour trip along and across the Beagle Canal was beautiful and not too choppy. The custom and immigration process in Ushuaia was a bit more formal and less baffling and we had no problems passing through.
The tourist information office was right across the road. We got a map of the town and a list of B&Bs. The girl working there was most peeved that it was snowing yet again. Then we set off looking for a place to stay, specifically a room with a view of the awesome scenery around: the Beagle Canal to the south with Isla Navarino on the other side and the Andes mountains of Tierra del Fuego to the north; all mountains still covered in snow.
Ushuaia is really quaint and pretty. It is almost like a Swiss village, except for the 3rd world building standards here and there, aging cars and free roaming dogs. Around every corner is another snowcapped mountain peak or view of the bay.
The first 2 places did not meet our requirements but the 3rd one was perfect: nice view from the room and a spacious living room with view which we have to ourselves as there are no other guests here and our hostess seems to have her own space elsewhere. We have use of the kitchen, satellite TV with English channels and free internet! Altogether a nice place to rest and recover a bit from the journey so far. Our hostess seems surprised that we are so inactive and are not out snowboarding or trekking through the wild mountainsides. We might make an effort sometime.
We had a long stroll through the town. Saw many shops selling outdoor gear, really good American, European and local brands for way cheaper than we get back home in SA. Also losts of touristy stuff. Bought tickets to fly to Buenos Aires on Wednesday 9 September. No more long distance buses for us, yippee!
Cozy evening at home.
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